Tichbourne
Knives
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LET's  GET  TECHNICAL

Technical Information

All of my knives are made by the stock removal method. What this means is that I purchase 440C surgical stainless steel flat bar, cut it to shape, then grind the bevel and cutting edge. The advantage of this method is that I can use a high quality tool steel which has very predictable properties.

The choice of 440C was because of its high chromium content (18%). This very high chrome content makes the steel very resistant to staining in use.  Recently I have included Stellite 6K in my production line because it is virtually impervious to corrosion and has superior edge holding capability.  The Stellite 6K will be used primarily for special "one of" designs and occasional models that will be added to our line.

After grinding the knives are sent to heat treating where they are heat treated in an inert atmosphere oven , then frozen in a cryogenic chamber with liquid nitrogen and finally tempered to my preferred working hardness (Rc 56-58). The heat treating and cryogenic treatment are carried out to convert the free carbon in the steel to carbide centered crystals, carbides if you will, because these are very hard and wear resistant and greatly increase the edge holding ability of any knife. The tempering is necessary because after the heat treating and cryogenic treatment the blades are very hard (Rc 62-63) but they are also very brittle, the tempering is necessary to reduce this brittleness. I have found that a hardness of Rc 56-58 nicely balances the need for good edge holding and almost eliminates the risk of blade breakage.

The blades are then mirror polished and the handle is epoxied and pinned in place.

Dyed black or mahogany 8-9oz hand stitched, water formed, pouch style leather sheaths are standard for the working/outdoor knives.  The bowies come with a snap style sheath embedded with rare earth magnets to keep the knife secure.  Custom hand tooling by request.

All blades are sharpened to a 17 degree angle and stropped to a razor edge before shipping. For those who would like further information on sharpening I have included a page of instructions on this site.

All of my knives come with a full warranty against material and workmanship failures.

About the Maker

Like many others I began making knives because I couldn't find the type of knife I needed. That was many years  ago and since then I have come to love the trade.

Knifemaking allows me to combine my manual skills and my love of the arts to produce hard working knives that are most often described as "works of art" by my customers.

440C Surgical stainless steel is my blade material of choice for making knives of every description from outdoor knives, kitchen knives through to high-end art pieces, some with my own scrimshaw.   Recently I have included Stellite 6K a product of Deloro Stellite Ltd. (Belleville, Ont. Canada) in my production line because it is virtually impervious to corrosion and has superior edge holding capability.  The Stellite 6K will be used primarily for special "one of" designs.  Stainless Stainless Damascus by Damasteel is another product that I have added to my line.  The "Random" pattern is my favourite, it's not as busy as many damascus pieces yet gives a wonderful contrast in layers. 

For three years I served on the Board of Directors for the Canadian Knifemakers Guild.  Although I have retired from the Board I am still an active member.

Since the beginning of time knives have been with us in one form or another. There is nothing "NEW" except the interpretation that each individual maker builds into his own designs. Knifemakers are a talented group of artisans limited only by their imagination and their personal desire to push the envelope.

I trust you will enjoy looking over this site, e-mail me if you have any questions. I will try to get back to you within 24 hours.

Alloy Compositions of Steels

Denotes steel used by Tichbourne
Carbon Manganese Silicon Chromium Nickel Molybdenum Cobalt Vanadium Tungsten
Abbreviation C Mn Si Cr Ni Mo Co V W
STEEL TYPE
0 - 1 .90 1.06 / .50 / / / / .50
W -1 1.00 .35 .35 / / / / / /
W - 2 1.00 .35 .35 / / / / .20 /
L - 6 .70 / / .75 1.5 .25 / / /
A - 2 1.0 / / 5.00 / 1.00 / / /
D - 2 1.50 .40 / 12.00 / .80 / .90 /
M - 2 .85 .25 .25 4.00 / 5.00 / 1.90 6.00
1098 .95 .40 / / / / / / /
5160 .60 .80 / .80 / / / / /
52100 1.10 .35 .35 1.5 / / / / /
Vascowear 1.12 .30 1.20 7.75 / 1.60 / 2.40 1.10
440 - C 1.20 1.00 1.00 18.00 / .75 / / /
425 Modified .50 .35 .35 13.5 / 1.00 / / /
ATS - 34 1.03 .25 .41 13.75 / 3.56 / / /
BG - 42 1.15 .50 .30 14.50 / 4.00 / 1.20 /
CRB - 70 1.10 0.40 0.30 14.00 / 2.00 / 1.00 /
440 - XH 1.60 .50 .40 16.00 .35 .80 / .45 /
CPM 420-V 2.20 / / 13.00 / 1.0 / 9.00 /
CPM T440-V 2.20

.50

.50 17.5 / .50 / 5.75 /
G - 2 .90 .37 .60 15.50 / .30 / / /
12C27 .58 .35 / 14.00 / / / / /
RS - 30 1.12 .50 1.0 14.0 / .55 / .25 /
AUS - 6 .65 1.00 1.00 14.5 .49 / / .25 /
AUS - 8 .75 1.00 1.00 14.5 .49 .3 / .25 /
MBS - 26 1.00 .40 .65 15.0 / .25 / / /

Sharpening

Fig 1As you may have noticed in the technical section all Tichbourne knives are hardened to Rc 56-58. What this means is that the blade is as hard as the average metal cutting file so normal knife sharpening techniques are not always going to bring the edge back to the desired sharpness. Special sharpening tools are recommended,

Because I am not known as a patient man I prefer to use the hardest material known to man to sharpen my own knives, diamonds. To be specific, a diamond-coated bench stone made by Diamond Machining Technologies or DMT for short. DMT produce a full line of diamond coated sharpening devices for all types of sharpening chores. My preferred sharpening tool is a bench stone 2 7/8" by 8 1/8" in a fine grain configuration because the fine grain does not leave a heavily toothed edge as a coarse or even the medium grain stones do. Because we are dealing with diamonds even the fine grain stone removes material quickly enough to satisfy even me. usually a knife's edge can be restored in about six strokes on each side of the blade.

The technique that I use myself is very simple but requires that the person sharpening understand how a knife is made.

Most knives start life out as a flat bar of steel and then are tapered towards the cutting edge. If this taper is continued right down to the cutting edge you will notice that the edge itself becomes very thin and weak, susceptible to bending over or breakage, so knifemakers create what is referred to as a micro bevel along the cutting edge.

Fig 2This micro bevel is usually angled at 17 degrees to the centre line of the blade because 17 degrees has proven to be durable enough to resist premature dulling of the edge while offering low resistance during slicing. Not all cutting tools use this angle however, a straight razor for instance performs best with a micro bevel of 2 to 5 degrees because cutting resistance is the primary concern here while an axe will normally have a micro bevel of about 32 degrees, cutting resistance is not as critical as edge holding in this application. Now that we know that a micro bevel exists on every knife let's look at how to maintain it.

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TICHBOURNE KNIVES
MADE IN CANADA

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fig3.JPG (11794 bytes)When I’m sharpening I place the bench stone on a flat surface and then place the blade on it, elevated to about a 17 degree above the surface. (Fig 3)

I then draw the blade backwards, away from the cutting edge, until I reach the edge of the stone. The blade is then picked up from the surface and placed back at the starting point for another stroke. I never use a back and forth or a circular motion because I believe that changing direction causes the blade position to change thus rounding the edge and defeating the intention of maintaining the micro bevel. Once the first side has had about 6 strokes covering the entire length of the blade I turn the blade over and work on the other side.

When you have finished sharpening the blade to your satisfaction I suggest a quick strop on a leather strop coated with stropping or honing compound to achieve a smooth razor edge. The smoothness of the edge helps with edge holding,

Special tools are available from a number of sources that automatically hold the blade at the proper angle during sharpening and could be of use to someone who does not sharpen knives very often.

Other sharpening materials, which can be used, are Carborundum stones, and ceramic tools. Sharpening systems based on natural materials such as Arkansas stones are usually too soft to make any impression on this hard steel as are the traditional butcher's steels because the knife blade at Rc 56-58 is actually harder than the butcher's steel. The exception are butcher's steels that are diamond or ceramic coated.

A WORD OF CAUTION

Always treat every knife as if it is very sharp because you never know when it was sharpened last. Your brother in law may have done you a favour when you were not paying attention.

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